Xian Drum Tower

Xian is most famous as the place to stay to see the Terracotta army, but it is a fascinating city in its own right. It has a large & interesting Muslim population. It is ultra ultra modern and very very ancient at the same time.

Solitary Worker Cleaning the Moat

Xian has one of the finest city walls in China. It has an actual moat! How cool is that?

South Gate of Xian City Wall

Re-Creating the Past

Xian City Wall is the most complete city wall in China. It is 40 feet tall and 8.5 miles in diameter with a deep moat surrounding it. It is an impressive sight.

Musicians at the City Wall

People enjoy playing their traditional instruments in the garden by the city wall. I was listening to them from the top of the wall.

The Great Mosque of Xian

I was fascinated by Chinese Muslims. I wonder what hardships they endured to survive the Cultural Revolution.

Men at the Mosque

Worshipers' Shoes at the Entrance to the Mosque

You can glimpse worshipers at prayer through the open doorway.

Bicycle, Bricks and Red Lanterns

On the ancient city wall of Xian.

At a Stoplight

Smoker on a Bench

Finding the Perfect Brush

Outside the US bargaining is the accepted way to shop. Some of us really got into the spirit of bargaining and never paid the asking price for anything--and why should you? Leslie is an artist, so she knows how to evaluate the quality of the brushes at this Xian market stall in the shadow of the Drum Tower.

In the Muslim Market a Woman Guards Her Wares

Xian is Famous for Noodles

A maestro of the art of noodlemaking at work. If you didn't know, would you guess what he's doing?

I have a movie of this scene and it's really fun to watch him working.

Night Scene

Morning Exercises at the East Gate

Every morning throughout all of China people gather in public parks for communal exercises. They carry this habit with them when they emigrate to other countries as well. In San Francisco this is also an ordinary sight.

A Lovely Ending to An Interesting Visit

A musician at the East Gate graciously allowed me to take his picture as he played a haunting tune at the base of the great wall of the city. Less than an hour later we left Xian for Beijing.

China's Miracle: The Terracotta Army

If the only thing we saw on our trip to China had been the terracotta army, it would have been worth it. I had longed to see these figures from the first time I ever heard about them after their discovery. You just have to be there to experience the magnitude of this great Wonder of the World, the most important archeological discovery of the Twentieth Century. It's thrilling.

The Terracotta Army was discovered in March 1974 by local farmers drilling a water well to the east of Mount Lishan, the man-made necropolis of the First Emperor of the Qin Dynasty; [Qin Shi Huang].

Follow this link to learn more: http://www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/shaanxi/xian/terra_cotta_army/index.htm

Before Restoration

This was the state of all the terracotta figures when they were first discovered. Keeping some of them in that ruined state gives context to the remarkable achievement of the restored figures.

Warrior Steeds

These noble steeds are ready for battle.

Solitary Warrior

Montage of statue with Great Wall in the background.

China's Miracle: The Great Wall

China has two bona fide Wonders of the World. Of course, The Great Wall has been famous far far longer than the terracotta army, but only because of its high visibility. They are both creations of the First Emperor of the Qin Dynasty: Qin Shi Huang. He must have been an amazing person.

Un BELIEVably Steep!

Some segments of the wall are not for the faint of heart or weak of body. Thank heavens for the handrails. I'd have had to crawl up this part without them.

Worn Steps and Graffiti

Ruins

This was as far as we could go. A leafless tree frames the crumbled remains of the Great Wall as it continues over the rugged terrain. Vast stretches of the Wall are now in ruins, since, of course, it is of no defensive value in modern times.

A Plague of Vendors

The one downside of an otherwise sublime experience is running the gantlet of hoards of aggressive vendors on the Great Wall. Luckily I am a battle-hardened veteran of the streets of San Francisco and was able to pretty much keep them at bay. I didn't enjoy rebuffing them, though. I'm sure their lives are very difficult compared to mine.

Great Wall Vignettes

A fashionable tourist poses at an arch framing a great view of the Wall.

An artist plys his trade on a steep section of the Wall.

Ming Tombs: The Underground Palace

The Dingling Underground Palace is the first of the 13 Ming imperial tombs to be officially opened to the public. Emperor Wan Li (1563-1620) and his 2 empresses were buried at Dingling at his death. Emperor Wan Li reigned for 48 years, the longest of all the Ming emperors and his tomb is definitely the most extravagant.

http://www.chinaetravel.com/attraction/att01w.html

Ancient Trees Ancient Walls

Inside the Underground Palace

In some ways the Underground Palace was a disappointment. A great deal of the underground part is really ugly--cavernous empty concrete rooms. However, some of the details are very interesting & beautiful. There are enormous marble doors and interesting passageways. And what is it about leaving money at certain places. Here you see a lot of Chinese currency in what looks like a throne room. Is it the same impulse that moves people to toss coins in fountains?

Stone Bridge on the Palace Grounds

Ming Tombs: The Spirit Way

Leading up to the tombs, the visitor passes through the Red Gate with its giant tortoise to enter the Spirit Way, lined with twelve sets of stone animals. Every other animal is in a reclining position, allowing for a "changing of the guard" at midnight."
Lonely Planet Best of Beijing.
This is the tomb of the Emperor Longqing.

Stone Guardians

After you pass all the animals, twelve large stone statues of generals, ministers & officials line the second part of Spirit Way. I didn't get a decent overall picture of the scene, so here are a few of the statues stitched into a panorama.

The Great Red Gate to the Spirit Way

Hou Atop the Dragon Column

"White stone columns called hua biao flank many of the imperial buildings in and around Beijing. Carved in the form of a writhing dragon, the columns are topped with mythical beasts called hou, which were thought to report to the emperor." info from http://www.stuebegreen.com/wonderland/photos/tombs/pix0.html

Rub a Tortoise Nose for Good Luck

The stele resting on the back of this giant tortoise is the largest in China. I think tortoises symbolize longevity, so maybe wishing for a long life might be your best bet.

The Forbidden City

Watchtowers stand at the four corners of the Forbidden City. Each watchtower is supported by nine beams and 18 pillars and has three layers of eaves. There are 72 ridges on the roof with a gilded spire in the center.
The original palace was founded by Emperor Yongle between 1406 and 1420 but it is doubtful that any of the original buildings remain. It has gone up in flames then restored many times over the intervening centuries. It's looking particularly wonderful at present as part of Beijing's being spiffed up all over in anticipation of the 2008 Olympics.

The Most-Photographed Lion in China

This male lion is one of the two bronze lions guarding Taihemen--the Gate of Supreme Harmony, the main gate of the outer court. All visitors pass though this gate and hardly anyone can resist taking a picture. (Fascinating fact: male lions are depicted with one paw resting on a ball; female lions are depicted with one paw resting on a lion cub.)

Sure Sign of the Apocalypse

Starbucks in the Forbidden City. Apres le Cultural Revolution . . . Starbucks? Mao must be spinning in his grave. Oh, wait, we could dash over to his crystal coffin to check him out, but nevermind. Have you ever wondered what are the Chinese characters for your favorite Starbucks beverage? Enlarge the menu to find out. (BTW, the counter people snapped rudely at me for daring to take a picture! Pshaw.)

Guardian of the Courtyard

Red Roof, Yellow Tile

Brilliantly painted eaves are among the most appealing features of Chinese architecture. If you look closely you can see powerful dragons entwined throughout the intricate designs.

Guards with Handicapped People

This is my favorite Forbidden City picture because it appears to depict humanitarian actions by the ubiquitious Red Guards and happens to be in a gorgeous setting. However, for all I know they've just arrested these poor souls on trumped-up charges. Or something entirely different might be in play. Create your own story from this scene!

Guards and Roofs